@charset "UTF-8";
:root{--ink:#20382e;--muted:#657269;--paper:#f8f7f2;--white:#fff;--line:#d9ded4;--moss:#dce3d5;--gold:#c2a16c;--serif:Georgia,'Times New Roman',serif;--sans:Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif}*{box-sizing:border-box}html{scroll-behavior:smooth;scroll-padding-top:100px}body{margin:0;background:var(--paper);color:var(--ink);font:16px/1.65 var(--sans)}a{color:inherit;text-decoration:none}button,input,select{font:inherit}button,a,input,select,summary{-webkit-tap-highlight-color:transparent}button{cursor:pointer}img{max-width:100%;display:block}h1,h2,h3,p{margin-top:0}h1,h2,h3{font-family:var(--serif);font-weight:400;line-height:1.12}h1{font-size:clamp(43px,5.6vw,82px);letter-spacing:-2.5px}h2{font-size:clamp(35px,3.5vw,49px);letter-spacing:-1.3px}h3{font-size:27px;letter-spacing:-.5px}p{margin-bottom:1.2em}a:focus-visible,button:focus-visible,input:focus-visible,select:focus-visible,summary:focus-visible{outline:3px solid #a36b27;outline-offset:5px}.wrap{max-width:1280px;padding-inline:48px;margin:auto}.small{font-size:13px}.muted{color:var(--muted)}.eyebrow{font-size:11px;font-weight:600;letter-spacing:2.2px;text-transform:uppercase;margin-bottom:20px}.skip{position:absolute;top:-90px;left:20px;background:white;z-index:100;padding:12px}.skip:focus{top:10px}.site-header{height:100px;display:flex;align-items:center;justify-content:space-between;gap:24px;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line);position:relative;z-index:20;background:var(--paper)}.brand{display:flex;gap:12px;align-items:center;flex-shrink:0}.brand svg{width:42px;height:42px}.brand strong{display:block;font-size:22px;line-height:1.05;font-family:var(--serif);font-weight:400;letter-spacing:2.6px}.brand span{display:block;font-size:8px;letter-spacing:3.3px;margin-top:6px}.desktop-nav{display:flex;gap:30px;align-items:center;font-size:13px}.desktop-nav>a:not(.button){border-bottom:1px solid transparent;padding:8px 0}.desktop-nav>a:hover{border-color:var(--ink)}.button{display:inline-flex;align-items:center;justify-content:center;gap:24px;background:var(--ink);border:1px solid var(--ink);color:#fff;padding:14px 23px;font-size:12px;letter-spacing:.4px;transition:background .2s}.button:hover{background:#365b45}.button.light{background:white;color:var(--ink);border-color:white}.button.outline{background:transparent;color:var(--ink)}.button.outline:hover{background:var(--moss)}.arrow{font-size:20px;line-height:1}.menu-button{display:none;background:none;border:1px solid var(--line);padding:8px 12px}.hero{height:610px;position:relative;overflow:hidden;color:white;margin:0 22px}.hero>img{position:absolute;inset:0;width:100%;height:100%;object-fit:cover;object-position:50% 56%}.hero:after{content:'';position:absolute;inset:0;background:linear-gradient(90deg,rgba(13,28,23,.77),rgba(13,28,23,.24) 67%,rgba(13,28,23,.08))}.hero .wrap{position:relative;z-index:1;padding-top:86px}.hero h1{max-width:690px;margin-bottom:22px}.hero h1 em{font-weight:400;color:#e2e9d9}.hero p{max-width:430px;font-size:15px;color:#e7eae1;line-height:1.8}.hero .button{margin-top:12px}.hero-place{position:absolute;z-index:2;right:32px;bottom:26px;display:flex;gap:10px;align-items:center;font-size:11px;letter-spacing:.5px}.hero-place svg{width:15px}.hero-place a{text-decoration:underline;text-underline-offset:3px}.intro-strip{display:flex;align-items:center;justify-content:space-between;gap:28px;padding-top:30px;padding-bottom:30px;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line);font-size:12px}.intro-strip span{display:flex;gap:10px;align-items:center}.intro-strip svg{width:19px;height:19px;stroke-width:1.3}.section{padding-top:85px;padding-bottom:85px}.section-head{display:flex;justify-content:space-between;align-items:end;gap:30px;margin-bottom:35px}.section-head h2{margin-bottom:0}.section-head p{max-width:360px;font-size:14px;color:var(--muted);margin-bottom:4px}.text-link{font-size:12px;display:inline-flex;align-items:center;gap:15px;border-bottom:1px solid var(--ink);padding-bottom:5px;white-space:nowrap}.destination-grid{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(6,1fr);gap:26px}.destination-card{grid-column:span 2;display:block}.destination-card:nth-child(4),.destination-card:nth-child(5){grid-column:span 3}.destination-card .image-wrap{height:260px;overflow:hidden;position:relative;background:#dce3d5}.destination-card:nth-child(4) .image-wrap,.destination-card:nth-child(5) .image-wrap{height:280px}.destination-card img{width:100%;height:100%;object-fit:cover;transition:transform .5s}.destination-card:hover img{transform:scale(1.035)}.destination-card .country{position:absolute;top:18px;left:18px;background:rgba(255,255,255,.94);font-size:9px;letter-spacing:1.3px;text-transform:uppercase;padding:6px 10px}.destination-card .card-title{display:flex;align-items:center;justify-content:space-between;margin-top:18px;margin-bottom:8px}.destination-card h3{margin:0}.destination-card .arrow{border:1px solid var(--line);width:34px;height:34px;border-radius:50%;display:grid;place-items:center}.destination-card p{font-size:12px;color:var(--muted);margin:0}.callout{background:#e7eadf;padding:55px;display:grid;grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr;align-items:center;gap:65px}.callout h2{font-size:42px;margin-bottom:20px}.callout p{font-size:14px;max-width:440px}.callout .steps{display:grid;gap:23px}.step{display:grid;grid-template-columns:33px 1fr;gap:18px;border-bottom:1px solid #ccd3c5;padding-bottom:18px}.step:last-child{border-bottom:0;padding-bottom:0}.step .number{font-size:11px;color:var(--muted);padding-top:3px}.step h3{font-family:var(--sans);font-size:14px;font-weight:600;letter-spacing:0;margin-bottom:7px}.step p{font-size:12px;margin:0;color:var(--muted)}.guide-list{border-top:1px solid var(--line)}.guide-row{display:grid;grid-template-columns:180px 1fr 120px;gap:28px;padding:28px 0;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line);align-items:center}.guide-row .meta{font-size:11px;letter-spacing:.6px;color:var(--muted)}.guide-row h3{font-size:29px;margin-bottom:9px;max-width:650px}.guide-row h3 a:hover{text-decoration:underline;text-decoration-thickness:1px;text-underline-offset:5px}.guide-row p{font-size:13px;color:var(--muted);max-width:660px;margin:0}.guide-actions{display:flex;gap:16px;justify-content:flex-end;align-items:center}.save{background:none;color:var(--ink);border:1px solid var(--line);width:38px;height:38px;display:grid;place-items:center;border-radius:50%}.save svg{width:16px;height:16px}.save[aria-pressed=true]{background:var(--ink);color:white}.save[aria-pressed=true] svg{fill:currentColor}.no-results{padding:40px;background:#e7eadf;margin-top:20px}.no-results[hidden],[hidden]{display:none!important}.site-footer{margin-top:35px;background:var(--ink);color:#e9ecdf;padding:62px 0 24px}.footer-top{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1.4fr 1fr 1fr;gap:70px;padding-bottom:45px;border-bottom:1px solid #4a5b4e}.footer-top .brand{margin-bottom:20px}.footer-top p{max-width:290px;font-size:13px;color:#bdc8bb}.footer-top .eyebrow{color:#bdc8bb;margin-bottom:18px}.footer-top ul{list-style:none;padding:0;margin:0;display:grid;gap:8px;font-size:12px}.footer-top a:hover{text-decoration:underline}.footer-bottom{display:flex;justify-content:space-between;gap:25px;font-size:10px;color:#bdc8bb;padding-top:23px}.breadcrumb{font-size:11px;color:var(--muted);padding:30px 0}.breadcrumb a{text-decoration:underline;text-underline-offset:3px}.page-intro{padding-top:35px;padding-bottom:45px;max-width:850px}.page-intro h1{font-size:clamp(43px,5vw,65px);margin-bottom:23px}.page-intro p{font-size:17px;color:var(--muted);max-width:680px}.filters{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1fr 250px auto;gap:18px;align-items:end;padding:24px;background:#e8ebe1;margin-bottom:30px}.filters label,.planner label{display:grid;gap:8px;font-size:11px;font-weight:600;letter-spacing:.5px}.filters input,.filters select,.planner select{width:100%;border:1px solid #c6cfc0;padding:13px 15px;background:var(--paper);color:var(--ink);border-radius:0;min-width:0}.filter-toggle{border:1px solid #b7c2b0;background:transparent;padding:13px 16px;white-space:nowrap;font-size:12px;color:var(--ink)}.filter-toggle[aria-pressed=true]{background:var(--ink);color:white}.filter-summary{font-size:12px;color:var(--muted);margin-bottom:12px}.article-head{max-width:900px;margin:auto;padding-top:26px;text-align:center}.article-head h1{font-size:clamp(40px,4.5vw,63px);line-height:1.1;max-width:850px;margin:0 auto 25px}.article-head .excerpt{font-size:18px;color:var(--muted);max-width:700px;margin:0 auto 25px;line-height:1.65}.byline{font-size:11px;color:var(--muted);display:flex;justify-content:center;gap:16px;flex-wrap:wrap}.article-image{margin:40px 0 0}.article-image img{width:100%;height:460px;object-fit:cover}.photo-caption{font-size:10px;color:var(--muted);padding:10px 0;line-height:1.6}.photo-caption a{text-decoration:underline}.article-layout{display:grid;grid-template-columns:235px minmax(0,740px);gap:65px;padding:45px 0 70px;justify-content:center}.toc{position:sticky;top:25px;align-self:start;font-size:11px}.toc details{border-top:1px solid var(--line);padding-top:18px}.toc summary{cursor:pointer;font-weight:600;font-size:12px;margin-bottom:18px}.toc ol{padding:0 0 0 17px;display:grid;gap:11px;color:var(--muted);line-height:1.5}.toc a:hover,.toc a.active{color:var(--ink);text-decoration:underline}.toc .save-text{margin-top:25px;background:transparent;border:1px solid var(--line);padding:10px 15px;font-size:11px;color:var(--ink)}.article-body{font:18px/1.85 var(--serif);min-width:0;color:#34433b}.article-body h2{font-size:32px;letter-spacing:-.7px;line-height:1.25;padding-top:25px;margin-bottom:21px;color:var(--ink)}.article-body section:first-child h2{padding-top:0}.article-body p{margin-bottom:24px}.article-body li{margin-bottom:12px}.article-body .article-note{padding:24px 28px;background:#e9ece2;border-left:2px solid #839473;font:13px/1.8 var(--sans);margin-bottom:35px}.article-body .article-note a{text-decoration:underline}.faq details{border-bottom:1px solid var(--line);padding:18px 0;font:15px/1.8 var(--sans)}.faq summary{cursor:pointer;font-size:16px;font-family:var(--serif)}.faq details p{margin:15px 0 5px;font-size:14px}.sources{font:13px/1.8 var(--sans);border-top:1px solid var(--line);padding-top:24px;margin-top:35px}.sources h2{font-size:24px;padding-top:0}.sources a{text-decoration:underline}.reading-progress{height:3px;width:0;background:#8a9d76;position:fixed;top:0;left:0;z-index:50}.destination-title{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1.2fr 1fr;gap:65px;align-items:end;padding:30px 0 45px;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line)}.destination-title h1{margin-bottom:0}.destination-title p{font-size:17px;color:var(--muted);margin:0}.destination-notes{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr;gap:75px;padding:45px 0}.destination-notes h2{font-size:36px}.destination-notes p{font-size:15px;color:#536154}.terrain{display:inline-block;font-size:11px;letter-spacing:.3px;border:1px solid var(--line);padding:10px 15px;margin-bottom:30px}.prose{max-width:760px;margin:0 auto;padding:55px 0 75px}.prose h1{font-size:52px}.prose h2{font-size:30px;margin-top:38px}.prose p,.prose li{font-size:15px}.prose a{text-decoration:underline}.prose .eyebrow{font-size:11px}.credit-row{border-bottom:1px solid var(--line);padding:22px 0}.credit-row h2{font-size:22px;margin-top:0}.credit-row p{font-size:12px;margin-bottom:7px;overflow-wrap:anywhere}.planner{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr;gap:50px;padding-bottom:70px}.planner-form{padding:30px;background:#e7eadf;align-self:start}.planner-form label{margin-bottom:20px}.planner-form .button{width:100%;margin-top:6px}.plan-result h2{font-size:33px}.plan-result .plan-item{margin:20px 0;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line);padding-bottom:18px}.plan-result .plan-item strong{display:block;font-size:11px;text-transform:uppercase;letter-spacing:1px;margin-bottom:8px}.plan-result p{font-size:14px}.checklist{margin-top:25px}.checklist label{display:flex;gap:10px;align-items:flex-start;margin:10px 0;font-size:13px;letter-spacing:0;font-weight:400}.checklist input{margin-top:5px;accent-color:var(--ink)}.print-button{background:none;border:1px solid var(--line);padding:10px 15px;font-size:12px;color:var(--ink)}.status{font-size:12px;color:var(--muted);min-height:20px}.owner-table{width:100%;border-collapse:collapse;font-size:12px;line-height:1.6}.owner-table td,.owner-table th{text-align:left;border:1px solid var(--line);padding:12px;vertical-align:top}.owner-table th{background:#e7eadf;position:sticky;top:0}.owner-table td:nth-child(1){width:45px}.owner-table td:nth-child(3){min-width:230px}.owner-scroll{overflow:auto}.owner-table ul{padding-left:15px}.owner-notice{padding:25px;background:#e7eadf;font-size:14px;margin-bottom:25px}.owner-controls{display:flex;gap:15px;flex-wrap:wrap;margin-bottom:25px}.owner-controls input,.owner-controls select{padding:12px;border:1px solid var(--line);background:white}.toast{position:fixed;bottom:25px;left:50%;transform:translateX(-50%);background:var(--ink);color:white;padding:12px 22px;z-index:90;font-size:12px;box-shadow:0 4px 24px #0002}.noscript{padding:12px 24px;text-align:center;font-size:12px;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line)}
.arrow{display:inline-flex!important;align-items:center;justify-content:center;width:30px!important;height:30px!important;border:0!important;vertical-align:middle;flex-shrink:0}.arrow svg{display:block;width:30px;height:30px}.prose .arrow,.sources .arrow,.small .arrow,.photo-caption .arrow{width:20px!important;height:20px!important}.prose .arrow svg,.sources .arrow svg,.small .arrow svg,.photo-caption .arrow svg{width:20px;height:20px}
@media(min-width:1500px){.hero{height:680px}.hero .wrap{padding-top:115px}}
@media(max-width:1000px){.wrap{padding-inline:30px}.desktop-nav{gap:18px}.guide-row{grid-template-columns:130px 1fr 80px;gap:20px}.article-layout{grid-template-columns:195px minmax(0,1fr);gap:35px}.callout{padding:40px;gap:40px}.destination-card .image-wrap{height:220px}.filters{grid-template-columns:1fr 210px}.filter-toggle{grid-column:1/-1;justify-self:start}.destination-title{gap:35px}.footer-top{gap:40px}}
@media(max-width:700px){.wrap{padding-inline:22px}.site-header{height:84px}.brand strong{font-size:19px}.brand span{font-size:7px;letter-spacing:2.7px}.brand svg{width:34px;height:34px}.menu-button{display:block}.desktop-nav{display:none;position:absolute;top:83px;left:0;right:0;background:var(--paper);padding:20px 22px;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line);align-items:stretch;flex-direction:column;gap:12px}.desktop-nav.open{display:flex}.desktop-nav .button{align-self:start}.hero{margin:0 10px;height:auto;min-height:590px}.hero .wrap{padding-top:65px;padding-bottom:90px}.hero h1{font-size:46px;letter-spacing:-1.5px}.hero p{font-size:14px;max-width:330px}.hero-place{left:22px;right:auto;bottom:18px;font-size:9px}.hero:after{background:linear-gradient(90deg,#0d1c17bd,#0d1c1740)}.intro-strip{flex-wrap:wrap;gap:16px;font-size:10px;padding-block:22px}.intro-strip span:last-child{display:none}.section{padding-block:55px}.section-head{display:block;margin-bottom:28px}.section-head h2{margin-bottom:18px}.section-head p{max-width:100%}.section-head .text-link{margin-top:8px}.eyebrow{font-size:10px;margin-bottom:15px}.destination-grid{grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:32px}.destination-card,.destination-card:nth-child(4),.destination-card:nth-child(5){grid-column:auto}.destination-card .image-wrap,.destination-card:nth-child(4) .image-wrap,.destination-card:nth-child(5) .image-wrap{height:260px}.callout{grid-template-columns:1fr;padding:30px 25px;gap:25px}.callout h2{font-size:36px}.guide-row{grid-template-columns:1fr 65px;gap:15px;padding:25px 0}.guide-row .meta{grid-column:1/-1}.guide-row h3{font-size:26px}.guide-actions{gap:12px}.guide-row p{font-size:12px}.footer-top{grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr;gap:30px}.footer-top>div:first-child{grid-column:1/-1}.footer-top p{max-width:100%}.footer-bottom{flex-direction:column;gap:10px}.site-footer{padding-top:40px}.filters{grid-template-columns:1fr;padding:20px}.filter-toggle{grid-column:auto}.article-head{text-align:left;padding-top:12px}.article-head h1{font-size:42px;letter-spacing:-1.3px}.article-head .excerpt{font-size:16px}.byline{justify-content:flex-start;gap:10px}.article-image{margin-top:28px}.article-image img{height:260px}.article-layout{grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:30px;padding-top:25px}.toc{position:static}.toc details{border-bottom:1px solid var(--line);padding-bottom:14px}.toc ol{columns:2;display:block;padding-left:18px}.toc li{break-inside:avoid;margin-bottom:9px}.toc .save-text{margin-top:10px}.article-body{font-size:18px;line-height:1.85}.article-body h2{font-size:28px}.article-body .article-note{padding:18px}.destination-title{grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:24px;padding-top:15px}.destination-title h1{font-size:49px}.destination-notes{grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:15px;padding-block:30px}.prose{padding-top:25px}.prose h1{font-size:43px}.planner{grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:35px}.planner-form{padding:25px}.page-intro{padding-top:20px;padding-bottom:30px}.page-intro h1{letter-spacing:-1.5px}.owner-controls{flex-direction:column}.owner-controls input,.owner-controls select{width:100%}}
@media(prefers-reduced-motion:reduce){html{scroll-behavior:auto}*{transition:none!important}}
@media print{.site-header,.site-footer,.toc,.save,.save-text,.print-button,.planner-form,.hero,.no-print,.reading-progress{display:none!important}.wrap{max-width:none;padding:0}.article-layout,.planner{display:block}.article-image img{height:200px}.article-body{font-size:11pt}.article-body h2{font-size:17pt}.article-body section{break-inside:avoid-page}.byline{font-size:9pt}a{text-decoration:underline}.plan-result{display:block!important}body{background:white;color:black}}

.answer-box{max-width:900px;margin:38px auto 0;padding:28px 34px;background:#e8ecdf;border-left:3px solid #82936d}.answer-box>p:not(.eyebrow){font:23px/1.55 Georgia,serif}.answer-box ul{font-size:13px;padding-left:18px;display:grid;gap:7px}.table-scroll{overflow-x:auto;margin:28px 0;max-width:100%;border:1px solid #cdd5c5}.decision-table{width:100%;border-collapse:collapse;font:14px/1.65 Arial,sans-serif;text-align:left;min-width:480px}.decision-table th,.decision-table td{padding:15px 18px;border-bottom:1px solid #d8ded0;vertical-align:top}.decision-table th{background:#e5eadc;font-weight:600}.decision-table tr:last-child td{border-bottom:0}.route-facts{font:13px/1.7 Arial,sans-serif;background:#f0f1e9;padding:20px 24px;display:grid;grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr;gap:20px}.route-facts dt{font-size:10px;letter-spacing:1px;text-transform:uppercase;color:#68755e}.route-facts dd{margin:5px 0 0}.destination-analysis{columns:2;column-gap:45px;margin:30px 0;font:16px/1.85 Georgia,serif}.destination-analysis p{break-inside:avoid}.topic-links{display:flex;gap:14px;flex-wrap:wrap;margin:24px 0}.topic-links a{display:inline-flex;align-items:center;gap:15px;border:1px solid #cdd5c5;padding:9px 15px;font-size:12px}.destination-card p{font-size:13px;line-height:1.8;max-width:none}.guide-row p{font-size:14px;line-height:1.8}.plan-route{padding:18px 0;border-bottom:1px solid #d9ded4}.plan-route a{text-decoration:underline}.plan-route p{margin:8px 0 0}.section .destination-analysis{margin-bottom:35px}@media(max-width:700px){.answer-box{padding:22px}.answer-box>p:not(.eyebrow){font-size:21px}.route-facts{grid-template-columns:1fr}.destination-analysis{columns:1}.decision-table{font-size:12px;min-width:450px}.decision-table th,.decision-table td{padding:12px}.guide-row{grid-template-columns:1fr 65px}.guide-row p{font-size:13px}.destination-card p{font-size:13px}}

.journal-pages{display:flex;align-items:center;justify-content:center;gap:25px;padding:35px 0}.journal-pages button{border:1px solid #cdd5c5;background:transparent;color:#20382e;padding:10px 20px;font-size:12px}.journal-pages button:disabled{opacity:.35;cursor:default}.journal-pages span{font-size:12px}

.contact-email{overflow-wrap:anywhere}

/* Small-screen controls and long-form content. */
.guide-row>div,.footer-top>div,.planner>*{min-width:0}
.article-head h1,.guide-row h3,.prose h1{overflow-wrap:break-word}
.filters input,.filters select,.planner select{font-size:16px}
.plan-result{scroll-margin-top:24px;min-width:0}
.plan-result h3{font-size:23px;line-height:1.35;margin-bottom:12px}
.plan-budget{padding:18px 20px;background:#e8ecdf;border-left:3px solid #82936d}
.planner-method{max-width:860px;padding-top:0}
.table-hint{display:none}
.table-scroll:focus-visible{outline:3px solid #a36b27;outline-offset:4px}
@media(max-width:700px){
 .guide-row{grid-template-columns:minmax(0,1fr)}
 .guide-row .meta,.guide-actions{grid-column:1}
 .guide-actions{justify-content:flex-start;gap:14px}
 .save{width:44px;height:44px;flex:0 0 44px}
 .guide-actions>a{display:inline-flex;align-items:center;justify-content:center;width:44px;height:44px}
 .menu-button,.filter-toggle,.print-button,.journal-pages button,.toc .save-text{min-height:44px}
 .journal-pages{gap:12px;flex-wrap:wrap}
 .journal-pages button{padding-inline:16px}
 .filters label,.planner label{font-size:12px}
 .toc ol{columns:1}
 .toc a{display:inline-block;padding-block:4px}
 .table-hint{display:block;font:12px/1.6 var(--sans);color:var(--muted);margin:18px 0 -18px}
 .breadcrumb{overflow-wrap:anywhere;line-height:1.8}
 .toast{max-width:calc(100% - 30px);width:max-content;text-align:center}
}
@media print{.plan-result[hidden]{display:none!important}.planner-method,.table-hint{display:none!important}}
